Julie Summers and Jochen Hemmleb offer a clear, well‑researched account of Sandy Irvine’s life, the 1924 Everest expedition, and the evidence uncovered in the decades since. While the mystery remains unsolved, the book provides a compelling look at why the question of Mallory and Irvine’s fate still fascinates climbers and readers alike.
Title/Author:
“The Everest Mystery: Sandy Irvine, George Mallory and the
Truth Still Buried on Mt. Everest” by Julie Summers and Jochen Hemmleb
Rating:
5 of 5 stars (excellent)
Review:
One of the greatest mysteries in mountaineering is now more than a century old: did George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reach the summit of Mt. Everest in 1924, twenty‑nine years before the first recorded ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? The Everest Mystery doesn’t claim to answer that question, but it offers an excellent account of Sandy Irvine’s life and the subsequent expeditions that uncovered Mallory’s body, Irvine’s shoe and foot, and other equipment belonging to both men. Julie Summers, Irvine’s great‑niece, and Jochen Hemmleb combine their research and expertise to create a clear, engaging narrative.
Despite what the title might suggest, the authors don’t present a definitive view on whether Mallory and Irvine reached the top. Instead, they draw from Irvine’s letters and diaries, historical records, and Hemmleb’s mountaineering knowledge to craft a book that is part biography, part chronicle of the 1924 expedition, and part investigation into the evidence found since the climbers disappeared.
Irvine was unusually young for the typical English explorer of the era, but he was chosen for his engineering skill, his ability to fix nearly anything, and his willingness to take on whatever tasks were needed — including cooking and porter work. Because Mallory was considering the use of supplemental oxygen for the summit push, Irvine’s technical abilities were especially valuable. Sadly, the pair never returned.
The book’s strongest sections describe the later expeditions that uncovered Mallory’s remains and Irvine’s shoe and foot, along with other clues that have only deepened the mystery. A 1960 Chinese expedition allegedly removed Irvine’s body, according to some accounts, to protect their claim of being the first to reach the summit via the North Col — the same route Mallory and Irvine climbed. To their credit, Summers and Hemmleb avoid sensational accusations and instead present the factual information available about that expedition and others. They also note that the 2024 discovery of Irvine’s boot and foot doesn’t resolve the question of whether the pair reached the summit, though it adds another intriguing piece to the puzzle.
More than a century later, the fate of Mallory and Irvine remains one of mountaineering’s most compelling mysteries. This book offers a thoughtful, well‑researched look at why the question endures.
I wish to thank St. Martin’s Press for providing a review copy of the book via NetGalley. The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own.






