Review of "The Ogre"

 The Ogre mixes heavy Himalayan history with a technical retelling of the 1977 climb. The descent chapter is terrific, but the rest didn’t hit as hard as other mountaineering books I’ve enjoyed. Still a worthwhile 3‑star listen.

Title/Author:

“The Ogre: Biography of a Mountain and the Dramatic Story of the First Ascent” by Doug Scott, narrated by Saethon Williams

Rating: 

3 of 5 stars (okay)

Review: 

Doug Scott’s The Ogre is a two‑part portrait of one of the Karakoram’s most notorious peaks, and my experience with the audiobook landed squarely in the middle. The first half offers a wide‑ranging history of Himalayan exploration—thorough, well‑researched, and clearly important to Scott. At times, though, that depth made me wonder when we would finally reach the climb that gives the book its name. It’s valuable context, but it does stretch the narrative before the expedition itself arrives.

The second half finally turns to the 1977 ascent of Baintha Brakk, where Scott and Chris Bonington became the first climbers to reach the summit. Scott leans heavily into the technical aspects of the climb—routes, conditions, gear, and decision‑making—sometimes at the expense of the personalities on the rope. He does introduce each member of the team in a dedicated chapter, but I found myself wishing those personal threads carried more fully into the story of the climb. Mountaineering narratives often shine brightest when the human dynamics are as vivid as the terrain, and that’s where this one felt a bit thin.

That said, chapter 14—detailing the team’s perilous descent after Scott broke both legs and Bonington cracked ribs—is gripping. It’s the section where the book’s strengths come together: the danger, the endurance, the teamwork, and the sheer will required to survive a weeklong retreat off one of the world’s hardest mountains. The roles played by Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine are especially compelling, and the stakes feel immediate in a way the earlier chapters don’t always achieve.

Overall, The Ogre is worth the time to listen to or read. It’s a solid account of a legendary climb, and Saethon Williams’s narration carries the material with clarity. But for me, other mountaineering books—those that blend technical detail with richer storytelling—have been more satisfying.

Link: Amazon.com: The Ogre: Biography of a Mountain and the Dramatic Story of the First Ascent (Audible Audio Edition): Doug Scott, Saethon Williams, Vertebrate Publishing: Audible Books & Originals

Review of "Everest 1953"

Mick Conefrey’s Everest 1953 blends political intrigue, expedition drama, and sharp character portraits into a gripping retelling of the famous climb. Even with the ending known, the story feels urgent, fresh, and deeply satisfying.

Title/Author:

“Everest 1953: The Epic Story of the First Ascent” by Mick Conefrey

Rating: 

5 of 5 stars (very good)

Review: 

As an avid reader of Himalayan mountaineering history, I’ve long considered Mick Conefrey one of the genre’s most reliable and engaging writers. Everest 1953 not only reinforces that belief—it may be one of his finest works. Even though the outcome of John Hunt’s expedition is familiar to most readers, Conefrey tells the story with the pacing and tension of a thriller, making the well‑known summit of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzig Norgay feel fresh, dramatic, and deeply human.

What elevates this book beyond a straightforward expedition narrative is Conefrey’s attention to everything that happened before anyone set foot on the mountain. The political maneuvering inside the Joint Himalayan Committee—especially the decision to replace Eric Shipton with British Army colonel John Hunt—is written with sharp insight into the personalities and national pressures of the time. Conefrey also captures the rivalry between Britain and Switzerland, both eager to be the first nation atop the world’s highest peak. His portraits of the climbers are concise yet vivid; in just a few strokes, he makes each man recognizable, relatable, and memorable. That ability to sketch character quickly and effectively is one of Conefrey’s strengths, and it’s on full display here.

The expedition itself provides no shortage of drama. Friction between British leadership and Sherpas over equipment, delays in Kathmandu, and the logistical challenges of establishing camps all add texture to the climb. Conefrey also handles the technical debate over oxygen systems with clarity—explaining how the closed‑circuit apparatus failed at critical moments, ultimately derailing the first summit attempt by Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans. Their achievement on the South Summit, briefly making them the highest climbers in history, becomes a poignant prelude to the successful push by Hillary and Norgay three days later.

Conefrey’s account of the aftermath is equally compelling. National pride, press scrutiny, and cultural misunderstandings created a new wave of controversy once the climbers returned home. Questions arose about who stepped onto the summit first, about Tenzig’s nationality, and about why Hunt and Hillary received knighthoods while Tenzig did not. Conefrey presents these tensions with nuance, showing how triumph on the mountain didn’t prevent conflict on the ground.

This is an extraordinary book—rich in human interest, grounded in history, and thrilling in its mountaineering detail. For readers of any of those genres, Everest 1953 is a standout account of one of the greatest achievements in exploration.

Link: Amazon.com: Everest 1953: The Epic Story of the First Ascent (Legends and Lore) eBook : Conefrey, Mick: Kindle Store

 

Review of "The Everest Mystery"

 Julie Summers and Jochen Hemmleb offer a clear, well‑researched account of Sandy Irvine’s life, the 1924 Everest expedition, and the evidence uncovered in the decades since. While the mystery remains unsolved, the book provides a compelling look at why the question of Mallory and Irvine’s fate still fascinates climbers and readers alike.

Title/Author:

“The Everest Mystery: Sandy Irvine, George Mallory and the Truth Still Buried on Mt. Everest” by Julie Summers and Jochen Hemmleb

Rating: 

5 of 5 stars (excellent)

Review: 

One of the greatest mysteries in mountaineering is now more than a century old: did George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reach the summit of Mt. Everest in 1924, twenty‑nine years before the first recorded ascent by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay? The Everest Mystery doesn’t claim to answer that question, but it offers an excellent account of Sandy Irvine’s life and the subsequent expeditions that uncovered Mallory’s body, Irvine’s shoe and foot, and other equipment belonging to both men. Julie Summers, Irvine’s great‑niece, and Jochen Hemmleb combine their research and expertise to create a clear, engaging narrative.

Despite what the title might suggest, the authors don’t present a definitive view on whether Mallory and Irvine reached the top. Instead, they draw from Irvine’s letters and diaries, historical records, and Hemmleb’s mountaineering knowledge to craft a book that is part biography, part chronicle of the 1924 expedition, and part investigation into the evidence found since the climbers disappeared.

Irvine was unusually young for the typical English explorer of the era, but he was chosen for his engineering skill, his ability to fix nearly anything, and his willingness to take on whatever tasks were needed — including cooking and porter work. Because Mallory was considering the use of supplemental oxygen for the summit push, Irvine’s technical abilities were especially valuable. Sadly, the pair never returned.

The book’s strongest sections describe the later expeditions that uncovered Mallory’s remains and Irvine’s shoe and foot, along with other clues that have only deepened the mystery. A 1960 Chinese expedition allegedly removed Irvine’s body, according to some accounts, to protect their claim of being the first to reach the summit via the North Col — the same route Mallory and Irvine climbed. To their credit, Summers and Hemmleb avoid sensational accusations and instead present the factual information available about that expedition and others. They also note that the 2024 discovery of Irvine’s boot and foot doesn’t resolve the question of whether the pair reached the summit, though it adds another intriguing piece to the puzzle.

More than a century later, the fate of Mallory and Irvine remains one of mountaineering’s most compelling mysteries. This book offers a thoughtful, well‑researched look at why the question endures.

I wish to thank St. Martin’s Press for providing a review copy of the book via NetGalley. The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own.

Link: Amazon.com: The Everest Mystery: Sandy Irvine, George Mallory, and the Truth Still Buried on Everest eBook : Summers, Julie, Hemmleb, Jochen: Kindle Store

 

Review of "The Climb:

After reading Into Thin Air, I wanted to hear another viewpoint on the 1996 Everest tragedy, and The Climb delivered exactly that. Boukreev’s detailed, unembellished account of the storm and his rescue efforts felt more accurate and more compelling. It’s a different lens on the same event, and one that ultimately spoke louder to me.

Title/Author:

“The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest” by G. Weston DeWalt and Anatoli Boukreev, narrated by Nelson Runger and Richard M. Davidson

Rating: 

4 of 5 stars (very good)

Review: 

This is the second book I’ve read about the May 1996 disaster on Mount Everest, the storm that killed eight climbers, including the well‑respected Scott Fischer. Like many readers drawn to this event or to mountaineering literature in general, I first read Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer. Now I’ve experienced another perspective on the tragedy — or more accurately, listened to it, through the audio version of The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston DeWalt.

While Boukerr is often regarded as a hero of that night, Krakauer’s account was far less generous, assigning Boukreev a share of blame for the deaths. Fischer was a guide on Boukreev’s Mountain Madness commercial team, while the Adventure Consultants expedition led by Rob Hall suffered four fatalities — Hall, Andy Harris, Doug Hansen, and Yasuko Namba. Three members of the Indo‑Tibetan Border Police also died on the mountain. With so much loss, it’s understandable that Krakauer sought explanations and accountability.

Listening to The Climb gave me a very different sense of the events leading up to that storm. Boukreev’s account felt more descriptive and more objective. He questioned decisions made by both Hall and Fischer, and he didn’t shy away from criticizing the business of commercial guiding — even though he was part of it. But in this book, he comes across primarily as someone trying to provide an accurate, unembellished description of the conditions on the mountain: the weather, the physical state of the climbers, and the chaos of the storm itself. For me, it offered a clearer, more grounded picture of what happened than Krakauer’s version.

That difference may simply reflect the different objectives each author had. But as a reader and listener, I felt Boukreev delivered a more precise account of what he endured while rescuing Charlotte Fox, Sandy Pittman, and Tim Madsen from certain death — without supplemental oxygen, at over 27,000 feet, in hurricane‑force winds. This review isn’t meant to discredit Krakauer; Into Thin Air is a bestselling and influential book. I just preferred this version, where the details of that rescue come directly from the climber who carried it out.

I also want to highlight the excellent narration. The two narrators brought the story vividly to life. At times it felt as though I were on the mountain myself — resting at Base Camp, fighting the brutal cold, or struggling through the thin air with limited gear and limited strength. Their performance added another layer to the experience and was a major reason I preferred this version as someone who enjoys reading about adventures in the Himalayas.

Link:  The Climb Audiobook by G. Weston DeWalt, Anatoli Boukreev

 

Review of "Fallen"

 Mick Conefrey’s account of George Mallory’s life and final Everest expedition blends strong research with gripping storytelling. Even with the outcome known, the 1924 climb and the discoveries that followed make for compelling, memorable reading.

Title/Author:

“Fallen: George Mallory and the Tragic 1924 Everest Expedition” by Mick Conefrey

Rating: 

5 of 5 stars (excellent)

Review: 

The first recorded and acknowledged successful climb of Mt. Everest came in 1953, when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit. Yet for more than a century, questions have lingered about whether George Mallory and Sandy Irvine may have stood on top of the world nearly three decades earlier. Mick Conefrey’s book offers an excellent account of Mallory’s life, ambitions, the fateful 1924 expedition, and the discoveries that continue to fuel debate over whether he and Irvine were truly the first to reach the summit.

Through research and interviews, Conefrey paints a vivid portrait of Mallory—adventurous, determined, and wholly committed to the mountain. The 1924 expedition was his third attempt, and while his long absences strained family life, he is portrayed as a devoted husband to Ruth and father to Clare and George. Conefrey also captures Mallory’s unconventional livelihood, earning money through lectures to support both his household and his expeditions. These sections are detailed, engaging, and easy to follow.

The book’s strongest writing comes in its account of the 1924 climb. The descriptions of the camps, the weather, and the daily dangers Mallory and Irvine faced are compelling even when the outcome is already known. Conefrey’s narrative holds the reader’s attention with the urgency of a story unfolding in real time. The later chapters—covering the discovery of the climbers’ bodies and the theories sparked by those findings—are equally absorbing. While the all‑important camera Mallory carried was never found, what was discovered has led many to believe he may have reached the summit long before Hillary and Norgay.

Link: Fallen: George Mallory and the Tragic 1924 Everest Expedition: Conefrey, Mick: 9781639366354: Amazon.com: Books

Review of "The Ghosts of K2"

 A deeply researched history of K2’s early expeditions, Ghosts of K2 spends most of its time on the failed climbs that preceded the Italians’ 1954 triumph. The payoff is worth the wait, but readers should be ready for a long approach before reaching the summit. Those who follow this blog know I'm big on books on Himalayan climbing.  This one is okay. 

Title/Author:

“The Ghosts of K2:  The Epic Saga of the First Ascent” by Mick Conefrey, narrated by Barnaby Edwards

Rating: 

3 ½ of 5 stars (good)

Review: 

K2 may stand just behind Everest in height, but its reputation as the world’s deadliest mountain gives it a mythic pull—and Ghosts of K2 leans heavily into that history. Conefrey devotes most of the book to the long trail of failed expeditions before the Italians finally reached the summit in 1954, and while that backstory is thorough, it often overshadows the climb that ultimately made history.

Across a 12½‑hour listen, nearly eight hours focus on unsuccessful attempts, from Charles Houston’s 1938 and 1952 expeditions to Fritz Wiessner’s ill‑fated 1939 push. These chapters are detailed and occasionally gripping, but they left me wishing for more time with the Italian team whose perseverance, frostbite, and perilous descent form the emotional core of the story. When Conefrey finally arrives at the successful summit bid, the narrative tightens and the payoff is real—helped along by strong narration from Edwards.

Mountaineering fans will find plenty to appreciate, especially in the historical context, but they should be prepared for a long approach before the main story arrives. I’m glad I stayed with it, and while it didn’t fully meet my hopes, it earns its 3½ stars for the depth of research and the satisfying final act.

Link: Ghosts of K2 Audiobook by Mick Conefrey

Review of "The Shining Mountain"

 It isn't often that I will read or listen to a book from the 1970's.  But as I was searching for a mountain climbing book on a peak I had not heard of before, I saw this one in the Audible library.  I decided to pick it up and I am glad I did.  This is my review of Peter Boardman's account of a two-man expedition on Changabang in 1976.

Title/Author:

“The Shining Mountain” by Peter Boardman, narrated by Stuart Crank

Rating: 

4 of 5 stars (Very Good)

Review: 

In 1976, two climbers from England, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, set out to achieve a first in mountaineering history.  They set out to be the first climbers to summit Changabang’s West Wall.  They would not be the first to reach the summit of this mountain in the Indian Himalayas but they would be first to do so on this more treacherous path. This book is Boardman’s account of that expedition, published in 1978. 

The audio version is narrated well by Stuart Crank.  His voice inflections allow the listener to easily distinguish between Boardman and Tasker, something that would not be easy to do if one has not met the men.  The writing is good as well.  Boardman does come off at times as bit of an elitist with his less-than-flattering remarks about people such as porters, but when it comes to his description of the climb, it feels like a gripping novel of survival.  This is especially true as the two of them reach the summit.

Some of the other features I did like was there wasn’t a long, drawn out description of the history of the mountain like some other books on mountaineering have.  There is some that will help the reader who is not familiar with the mountain have a little background, but it’s not a major part of the book.  I also felt that the description of the actual climb, the conversations between the two men and their feelings both during and after were excellent.  Especially that latter part.  While yes, Boardman may have made the remarks mentioned above, those are at least honest.  Keeping in mind when this took place and when the book was written, it was not uncommon for those types of thoughts to be prevalent at the time. 

I live my vicarious mountain climbing life through these types of books and this one gave me another mountain for which I have enjoyed hearing about a summit reach.  I am also glad I chose the audio version for this as an excellent narrator can enhance a story like this and Crank does so marvelously.

Link:  Amazon.com: The Shining Mountain (Audible Audio Edition): Peter Boardman, Stewart Crank, Vertebrate Publishing: Books

 

First post of 2026 - “Everest: Alone at the Summit”

Happy New Year! I am hoping to continue my strong reading performance of 2025 with setting a higher goal (100 or more reviews here, 120 or more total books read) and expanding my topics. But to start the new year, I went back to a favorite topic of mine - climbing the tallest mountain in the world. This book was written just a few months after this 1988 expedition but is still a great book. 

Title/Author:“Everest: Alone at the Summit” by Stephen Venables

Rating: 5 of 5 stars (excellent)

Review: As someone who could never attempt to climb a mountain, I am always fascinated with the adventures of those who attempt to reach the summit of the world’s highest peaks like Mt. Everest and K2. This book by Stephen Venables on his 1988 expedition on Everest when he became the first British climber to reach the peak without supplemental oxygen is no exception.

 

Something very remarkable about this climb was that a team of only 4 climbers made the attempt, and Venables was the only one to reach the summit. This didn’t diminish the accomplishments of the other three climbers as Venables expresses much kindness and praise for them throughout the book. Even with just one of them making it to the top, it’s clear that they worked well as a team. The porters and Sherpas who assisted in getting the supplies to Base Camp, as well as the team doctor and cooks also are given much thanks.

The book, while excellent overall, did feel like it was dragging when Venables was describing their travels into Nepal and finally getting to Base Camp. But once the actual climb started, the book was a gripping account of accomplishment, disappointment, near tragedy and ultimately relief at having survived the adventure. It was different to read that Venables wasn’t brimming with excitement at reaching the peak, but it was clear that his hypoxia was taking over and he knew that he had to start his descent soon.

The details of the climber’s struggles and the technical details while climbing are very good. While I never climbed I have read enough books on the sport that I understood most of it, but novices to mountain climbing, whether they do it or read about it, might find these parts too technical for their liking. Here is a passage to illustrate the details:

“It was a masterly performance. First, he took off his rucksack and left it on a ledge, clipped for safety into the rope. Now, without the weight of a sack, he could at least stay in balance for the first moves up a little ramp which leaned rightwards into the cliff. He moved confidently up this, placed an ice screw, climbed higher, then placed another ice screw, clipped in a footloop and used this to surmount an overhanging bulge. Then he moved back left, like some spidery crab spread-eagled on four clawed legs. The most impressive part was the speed and skill with which he placed protecting ice screws, whilst hanging so precariously from one ice hammer. He climbed diagonally left for about ten metres, then moved straight up.” (Venables writing about Ed Webster during a climb to another ledge).

This is just one passage of the several that made this book one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Highly recommended  for those who climb or those who read many books on the sport like I do.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4946L8/ref=x_gr_bb_kindle?caller=Goodreads&tag=x_gr_bb_kindle-20 

Review of "The Summit"

Sticking with the mountain climbing theme, this is the second book that I have read or listened to about this deadly day on K2.  This time there are many observations from a Sherpa who was on the mountain on that day.  Here is my review of "The Summit"

Title/Author: “The Summit: How Triumph Turned to Tragedy on K2’s Deadliest Days” by Pat Fahey with Pemba Gyalje Sherpa, narrated by Pat Fahey

Rating: 4 of 5 stars (very good)

Review:  August 1, 2008 is believed to be the deadliest single day on the mountain K2, which is sometimes called the “savage mountain.”  It is considered the most dangerous mountain for climbers, even more so than Mt. Everest.  As noted in this book, 1 in 4 climbers eventually die in their expedition to reach the summit of K2 compared to 1 in 11 climbers on Everest.  This book tells about the tragedy of that day from interviews and also the stories of one of the Sherpas on the mountain that day, Pemba Gyalje Sherpa.

This is the second book I have read on this tragedy – the other one was an account from a survivor of the American team attempting to summit K2.  At that time, there were several nations with teams attempting to climb the second highest mountain in the world.  In addition to the Americans, there was a Norwegian husband and wife part of a larger team from that country, as well as teams from the United Kingdom, Serbia and South Korea.

This many climbers led to many issues that the climbers and Sherpas had to address, the biggest of which was that in the short window of good weather to get to the summit, there was a logjam in the bottleneck on the safest path to the top.  While there was a very good account of the attempt so set the fixed ropes in the proper place, that did not go as planned and was just one of the many issues that resulted in the deaths of the 11 people.

Why I chose this particular part of the book for illustration purposes is that I felt it was the best example of the full picture the listener will get while listening to the book (or reading it if that is your preference). While it does take a little bit into the book to fully understand Falvey’s narration, once that is done, the accident and what led to it will be described in full with excellent observations by Pemba.  It is a little more technical than the other book I read on this disaster, but nonetheless it is still an excellent account of the deadliest day on the savage mountain.

Link: https://www.audible.com/pd/The-Summit-Audiobook/B00KIZRULE?ref_pageloadid=0ZSIURFmuc6sdO3r&pf_rd_p=80765e81-b10a-4f33-b1d3-ffb87793d047&pf_rd_r=BZSB53VC827AKWF613TM&plink=qIG2Fd3evjWH51gj&pageLoadId=DluDQYLaZv20lRTD&creativeId=4ee810cf-ac8e-4eeb-8b79-40e176d0a225&ref=a_library_t_c5_libItem_B00KIZRULE_5

 

Review of “Enough”

Having heard of this author because of her accomplishments on Mount Everest, I picked up this book hoping to learn more about Melissa Arnot Reid. I certainly did! Here is my review of her memoir.

Title/Author: “Enough: Climbing Toward a True Self on Mount Everest” by Melissa Arnot Reid

Rating: 4 of 5 stars (very good)

Review: Climbing the highest peaks in the Himalayas is dangerous enough when carrying supplemental oxygen to aid with breathing at such high altitudes. Making it to the summit of Mt. Everest without any of those tanks is an amazing accomplishment for anyone. The author of this memoir, Melissa Arnot Reid, became the first American woman to complete this amazing task.

She did not have an easy path to this point, especially in her personal life. Between her rocky relationship with her mother, her feelings of not being worthy of love or success, and failed relationships made her feel that her only escape was climbing. Starting off as a guide for climbers on Washington’s Mt Ranier, she became a skilled climber that eventually made Everest’s summit six times. 

The book is mostly about her struggles with the aforementioned personal issues in which she opens herself for all to see. That is precisely what she felt was what she couldn’t do in her relationships with people, especially those close to her. How she overcame those on one of her expeditions to the Himalayas is a story that sounds more like a fantasy (although she does describe it as a dream). What I liked about that is whether she was describing her professional or personal life, she came across as an unlovable person (by her own description) but this completely changed her. Because of that, it really was nice to finish the book on a happier note for both her new love and her summit to the top of the world.

As a reader who really enjoys reading about expeditions to the highest points in the world, I found this book to be a hard read at first, but I was rooting for Reid to overcome all her troubles and find happiness - mission accomplished for both her place in history and for her life. 

I wish to thank Crown Publishing for providing a copy of the book. The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own. 

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Enough-Climbing-Toward-Mount-Everest/dp/0593594088/ref=tmm_hrd_swatch_0 

First review of 2025 - "The White Ladder"

Starting off 2025 with a book I read over the holiday break on one of my favorite topics - mountaineering.  This was a look at some of the early pioneers of the sport and what they did to reach new heights.  Here is my review of "The White Ladder." 

Title/Author:

“The White Ladder: Triumph and Tragedy at the Dawn of Mountaineering” by Daniel Light

Rating: 

4 of 5 stars (very good)

Review:

While Sir Edmund Hillary is the most well-known mountaineer from the first half of the 20^th century being the first person to scale Mt. Everest, there was a long trail of climbers who preceded him and took the same risks to climb heights unknown to man at that time.  Those climbers and their adventures are captured in this well-researched book by Daniel Light.

What separates this book from most other mountaineering books I have read is that instead of concentrating on one group or climber, this book profiles many different climbers and their quests to become the first climber to either summit a particular peak (and not always in the Himalayas) or at least attain an altitude that no person had ever reached before. I found this very interesting as these climbers did not have the equipment, clothing, gear and other necessities that today’s mountaineers have.  How they were able to attain these heights without items that modern climbers could not live without made for very interesting stories.

It was also noteworthy that like today, the climbing society is mostly male, but some determined women will make their mark and show they are worthy of being considered among the elite in the sport.  In this book, one woman’s story, Fanny Bullock Workman, was fascinating and while she may not have fit the image of women of that time, she certainly knew her way up a mountain as she and her husband made many expeditions.

The reader will learn a lot of interesting facts and personalities in the early days of the sport.  One great example that I learned was who the person was that invented crampons.  His name is Oscar Eckenstien (an elite climber of the era in his own right) and instead of settling for using nails inside his boots as was common at that time, he modified the design of climbing irons and used a 10-point bladed boot attachment to gain better footing on steep ice or snow.

While at times the book does delve into very technical language, any climbing enthusiast will enjoy reading this selection.  That includes those like me who have never strapped on crampons or climbing boots but love to read about the sport as well as those who enjoy climbing at any skill level.

I wish to thank W.W. Norton and Company for providing a copy of the book via NetGalley.  The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own.

Link: The White Ladder: Triumph and Tragedy at the Dawn of Mountaineering: Light, Daniel: 9781324066217: Amazon.com: Books

Review of "Thirty Below"

When I saw this book offered on NetGalley, I couldn't believe that I had never heard of this feat by this courageous group of female climbers.  After reading it, I now understand why and frankly, it's about time that their accomplishment gets the recognition it deserves.  Here is my review of "Thirty Below." 

Title/Author:

“Thirty Below: The Harrowing and Heroic Story of the First All-Women’s Ascent on Denali” by Cassidy Randall

Rating: 

5 of 5 stars (excellent)

Review:

A historic achievement occurred on July 6, 1970 when a group of six women became the first all-female team to reach the peak of a mountain higher than 20,000 feet when they reached the summit of Denali. While they were not one of the first females to reach this peak (Barbara Washburn was in 1947), it was still an amazing accomplishment.  The stories of each of the women and the harrowing experience they had while climbing are told in this excellent book by Cassidy Randall.

 All six women – Grace Hoeman, Arlene Blum, Margaret Clark, Margaret Young, Faye Kerr, and Dana Isherwood – were established climbers with various amounts of experience.  Grace organized this team after losing her husband Vin to the mountains and failing to reach the peak of Denali on an earlier attempt.  Her experiences and determination to reach the summit makes for excellent reading, even if a bit slower than the later parts of the book.  This is also the case for the other five women – all have excellent stories about their mountaineering experience and their personal lives captured by Randall.

 At this time, mountaineering was a sport dominated by men and overcoming the sexism and belief that women were not capable of scaling such mountains was a huge motivation factor for the “Denali Damsels” as they became to be known.  It was such a strong belief for them that at times they would refuse assistance from other climbing teams’ male members because they felt by doing so, it was reinforce the incorrect notion that women could not accomplish this without assistance from men. This view about female climbers was pervasive at this time and that is a topic visited frequently by Randall.  It really makes the accomplishment even more impressive.

 While the stories of each woman were great to read, their climb up Denali was even better.  Randall wrote this part of the book much like an adventure novel, complete with drama and subplots.  Will the team make it?  Will Grace, who became extremely ill, survive? Will the team overcome their differences and squabbles that inevitably hit all climbing teams?  This latter question was especially noteworthy given the way they assembled and their different backgrounds and nationalities. And of course, we know the answer to the first question.  That doesn’t take away the excitement a reader will experience when picking up this book about a extraordinary achievement that is finally getting the recognition it deserves.

I wish to thank Abrams Press for providing a copy of the book via NetGalley. The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own.

Link: Thirty Below: The Harrowing and Heroic Story of the First All-Women's Ascent of Denali: Randall, Cassidy: 9781419771538: Amazon.com: Books

Review of “Mt Everest Confessions of an Amateur Peak Bagger”

Seeing this title on the list of “recommended” books on Kindle Unlimited made me curious. Since  I have a subscription I had nothing to lose by trying it - glad I did.  

Title/Author:

“Mt. Everest Confessions of an Amateur Peak Bagger” by Kevin Flynn with Gary Fallesen

Rating: 

4 of 5 stars (very good)

Review: Most mountain climbing books are either written by or about climbers who are either part of a professional guiding team or are proficient enough in the sport that they are considered elite. The author of this book, Kevin Flynn, would probably not be considered to fall in either of these categories. Nonetheless, his story of perseverance to become one of the climbers to have reached the summit of Mount Everest is a fairly quick, easy and enjoyable read.

A native of Rochester, New York, Flynn became interested in climbing when he took a trip a few hours east to the Adirondack Mountains. He became a member of the “Adirondack 46”, an exclusive club of those who have scaled all 46 peaks in that range. He then takes the reader through his adventures of summiting higher mountains such as Denali. He writes with self-deprecation, both humorous and not so humorous. But that’s just being humble - he is doing well enough that in 2002, he decided to make hist first attempt to scale Everest.

Here is probably the saddest part of the book - not only did he not make the summit on that trip, making it as far as the highest camp (High Camp), but was because he was injured and needed assistance down. After conferring with his wife Maggie (also a member of the Adirondack 46 club), he tries again two years later and this time succeeds. But even that is tinged with sadness. Flynn writes how achieving this amazing goal didn’t give him any joy at all and his descent was much slower than it should have taken. He finds out at Base Camp that he had pneumonia in this climb.

While not joyous, there are happy moments in the book as well as much gratitude to the Sherpas who were with him on both attempts. That's what I felt was the best aspect of this book - the emotions of Flynn as they feel genuine and the reader will feel them as well. The climbs are also told in plain language which is helpful for those not familiar with those terms. For those reasons, I believe even those who don’t read many mountaineering books (I certainly don’t qualify for that) will enjoy the book.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Everest-Confessions-Amateur-Bagger/dp/0976743132/ref=tmm_pap_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr= 

Review of the series “Neverest”

This review will be a little different than others because this is about a series of books, not just one. After finding the book “Neverest” by Nick van der Leek, I of course picked up on Kindle Unlimited as I never pass up the chance at books on climbing Himalayan peaks. What I didn’t expect was to find that it was book 1 of a 4 book series on the famous 1996 expedition on Mt. Everest that killed 8 and was made famous by a best selling book (“Into Thin Air” by Jon Krakhauer) and a documentary film, “Everest.”

For the series and for each book, I gave them all 4 star ratings out of 5. Each book took a different look at the circumstances surrounding the disaster and who might have been responsible. Of course, there really would not be one single person who would be the culprit for eight deaths. That, to me, is the strength of this series - van der Leek sees and writes about how many individuals, the weather, and the two groups climbing (Mountain Madness and Adventure Consultants) all had a hand in the tragedy.

I felt book 1, on the Mountain Madness team, led by Scott Fisher (one of the eight victims) was the best one. In this one, van der Leek views Everest as a crime scene and lists “persons of interest “ much like a crime investigation. These subjects include Fisher and Krakhauer. Because it had an open ending, this shows that this is a series. 

For the remaining books, van der Leek concentrates on Adventure Consultants, the two lead guides for the groups and the Sherpas in books, 2,3, and 4 respectively. They all do a very good job of explains the circumstances, highlighting possible errors in judgement, and what could have been done better. The writing in all four books is entertaining, at times a bit snarky, and knowledgeable due to both research by van der Leek and his experience as a climber made the series enjoyable. 

For my cover picture, I am posting the cover from book 3, which was the best of the four. I will resume the regular format of posts with my next review.