Saturday, January 3, 2026

First post of 2026 - “Everest: Alone at the Summit”

Happy New Year! I am hoping to continue my strong reading performance of 2025 with setting a higher goal (100 or more reviews here, 120 or more total books read) and expanding my topics. But to start the new year, I went back to a favorite topic of mine - climbing the tallest mountain in the world. This book was written just a few months after this 1988 expedition but is still a great book. 


Title/Author:“Everest: Alone at the Summit” by Stephen Venables


Rating: 5 of 5 stars (excellent)


Review: As someone who could never attempt to climb a mountain, I am always fascinated with the adventures of those who attempt to reach the summit of the world’s highest peaks like Mt. Everest and K2. This book by Stephen Venables on his 1988 expedition on Everest when he became the first British climber to reach the peak without supplemental oxygen is no exception.

 

Something very remarkable about this climb was that a team of only 4 climbers made the attempt, and Venables was the only one to reach the summit. This didn’t diminish the accomplishments of the other three climbers as Venables expresses much kindness and praise for them throughout the book. Even with just one of them making it to the top, it’s clear that they worked well as a team. The porters and Sherpas who assisted in getting the supplies to Base Camp, as well as the team doctor and cooks also are given much thanks.


The book, while excellent overall, did feel like it was dragging when Venables was describing their travels into Nepal and finally getting to Base Camp. But once the actual climb started, the book was a gripping account of accomplishment, disappointment, near tragedy and ultimately relief at having survived the adventure. It was different to read that Venables wasn’t brimming with excitement at reaching the peak, but it was clear that his hypoxia was taking over and he knew that he had to start his descent soon.


The details of the climber’s struggles and the technical details while climbing are very good. While I never climbed I have read enough books on the sport that I understood most of it, but novices to mountain climbing, whether they do it or read about it, might find these parts too technical for their liking. Here is a passage to illustrate the details:


“It was a masterly performance. First, he took off his rucksack and left it on a ledge, clipped for safety into the rope. Now, without the weight of a sack, he could at least stay in balance for the first moves up a little ramp which leaned rightwards into the cliff. He moved confidently up this, placed an ice screw, climbed higher, then placed another ice screw, clipped in a footloop and used this to surmount an overhanging bulge. Then he moved back left, like some spidery crab spread-eagled on four clawed legs. The most impressive part was the speed and skill with which he placed protecting ice screws, whilst hanging so precariously from one ice hammer. He climbed diagonally left for about ten metres, then moved straight up.” (Venables writing about Ed Webster during a climb to another ledge).


This is just one passage of the several that made this book one that I thoroughly enjoyed. Highly recommended  for those who climb or those who read many books on the sport like I do.


Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4946L8/ref=x_gr_bb_kindle?caller=Goodreads&tag=x_gr_bb_kindle-20 


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